Moray Coastal Trail 50 - Ultra marathon number three!

I did it! I ran 47 miles from Forres to Cullen on the Moray Coastal Trail! I set off at 7.02am on Saturday 11th May and finished at 4.46pm, completing one of the most difficult and incredible challenges I've ever done.

Here's how my experience unfolded...

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Pre-event: In my previous blog post I detailed my run at the Moray Marathon, which was my last long run prior to the Moray Coast 50 (the event was originally a 50 mile event but the new bridge at Lossiemouth - opened in 2022 - cut out three miles from the route, so it's now a 47 mile route that has kept the 50 in its name!). 

I found that the three weeks in between the Moray Marathon and the Moray Coast 50 were quite a confusing, tiring time. I was tapering, resting, but also trying to stay training for the big day. I actually didn't manage many runs, plagued by a head cold that I could not shake. I chose rest over running a number of times, and tried not to panic about losing fitness. Ultimately resting was more important, and finally in the two days prior to the event I finally felt more better than ill, although still not 100%. Unfortunately Dave and Totty both still had a nasty cough and bug going into our holiday...

We travelled to Hopeman on Friday 10th May and settled into the family caravan after kicking out a few other family members to their alternative accommodation! Sorry/thanks guys! I got straight into finishing my preparation - making my morning porridge and my tatties for fuelling. I actually stayed overnight in my mum and dad's airbnb, so as not to disturb Dave and Totty too much in the caravan at 5am. Disturbed my mum and dad instead - sorry/thanks guys! Unfortunately I didn't sleep well due to not being able to switch my brain off/worrying about sleeping in!

The day itself:

Thankfully the morning rolled out pretty perfectly - porridge with raisins, tea, all my stuff in mum's car and we left Hopeman at 6am. Followed by my Uncle Colin, of course. We made it to the Community Centre in Forres in plenty time to join the short queue for registration, drop the drop bags, and go to the toilet a couple of times (no queue, hooray!). It was funny being back here as this was where I got to the bus for the Dava Way in the pitch black way back in November. 

A bit of time to stand around, pin my number and take some pictures before walking across to the start line at the pavilion in Grant Park - where the Dava Way finished! We sang happy birthday to the piper, then after a few words from Race Director Kyle, we were underway.

It was warm. The forecast in the run up was predicting temperatures of above 20 degrees today, and it was concerning. I don't cope well in heat (to me, that's anything above 15 degrees!) and tend to avoid running on hot sunny days. Training has been through a cold wet winter and I was in no way prepared to run in blazing sunshine, no cloud cover and very little breeze! I hoped for a cooler morning to start in but it was already 15 degrees in Forres at 7am, and so within the first few miles I felt roasting. I had factor 50 on but very quickly sweated it off. I was aware that I'd need extra salts and electrolytes to get through the day. I took on liquid - water and Active Root - regularly.

I took it slowly and steadily - there was a long way to go! After crossing the A96 we were on a back road towards the Benromach Distillery, then skirted past Kinloss on the way to Findhorn. I had a few chats with other runners around here which helped pass the time in these nervy few first miles - Robert, Hayley, Imogen and Ian. I glanced at my watch at one point and I was over 6.5 miles, without really realising it. Saw legendary supporter Uncle Colin at Findhorn, and enjoyed the pretty wee village before we hit the lunar landscape behind the beach.

I'd been here once before, on a training run for the Dava Way back in October, an 18 mile run that took me from the caravan to Findhorn and back. The route goes along the outer fence of Kinloss Barracks and into Roseisle Forest - a memorable place to visit on childhood holidays. 

It was also where I spotted the photographer, Stuart Ross, for the first time. After being unlucky on the Dava I was delighted every time I saw him! (He'd also done a fantastic job on the Moray Marathon route).

Photo credit: Stuart Ross Media / with Ian and Imogen just behind

Photo credit: Stuart Ross Media

I loved the Roseisle section. It felt like a welcome bit of shade from the sun beating down on us, and I knew it would be the last bit of shade we'd likely have (actually there was another short forested section much later on in the day).

I saw Roberta for the first time here - she's a bike marshal, so she rides up and down the course checking we're all okay. She did 77 miles that day which must have been exhausting on that terrain and in that heat! I'd met Roberta on the Dava Way and she is such a supportive and encouraging person that she's exactly who you want to see during an ultra, especially during the tough times.

I also met another supportive and encouraging lady on a bike in Roseisle forest - my mum! She'd gone back to Hopeman after the start at Forres, then cycled out to meet me at Roseisle. That was really nice, then of course Uncle Colin popped up again at aid station one! I didn't have a drop bag at the first aid station (approx 13 miles) because I knew I'd be carrying enough to take me to the second aid station, but I did grab a cup of water here. I also had to try and sort my water bladder which proved to be really annoying all day!

From here it was onto Burghead and Hopeman. Someone at Burghead cheered me on and asked if I had far to go - I replied "just to Cullen" and he looked shocked! I met Gordon at Burghead, who'd run the event last year, and we shared some chatty miles together on the familiar path through Cummingston (another childhood - and current! - favourite!). 

I knew my whole cheer squad would be at Hopeman on the caravan site so I was very excited to see them - Totty, Dave, Ross, Arran, Andrew, Sarah, William, cousin John, Uncle Colin, Mum - but no Dad! I imagined he'd be further on the route with the big dogs. There was an additional water station added at Hopeman due to the predicted heat and I was very glad of it - filled up both soft flasks here!

I found Dad on the path to Primrose Bay, one of our most well trodden routes. As children this was an epic full day adventure, so it's quite disconcerting as a grown up to run it in about ten minutes! It was really nice to see Dad and the dogs. 

Round towards Covesea and along the beach to Lossiemouth. Thankfully this section of beach was really lovely and actually a welcome relief for the feet and legs after some tarmac first thing and narrow coastal paths. We all headed for the hard sand and picked our way round to the marina at Lossiemouth. Here I got chatting to Jon, who tends to favour triathlons, and he was good company. At Lossiemouth I found I was running exactly the same route as the Moray Marathon, so that was a nice flashback! I saw my entire cheer squad here, stretched out in three different locations. 

Aid station number two was at the new bridge in Lossiemouth (approx 26 miles, although my watch was saying 24 something at this point!). I took a few minutes to fill my soft flasks (kindly helped by the partner of a participant called Tom!) and took the crisps, banana and mini can of Coke from my drop bag. I really didn't fancy the Mars Bar! Ross had the genius idea of pouring water into my cap - that felt amazing! I didn't want to spend too long as it's harder to get going again, and also I knew Jon had the GPX of the route on his watch so when I saw him leave I wanted to follow, as I knew we were coming up to a challenging section! But I regret not getting an ice lolly here!

The beach at Lossiemouth was so busy with sunbathers and families out enjoying themselves. It felt weird running past everyone! I followed the path of the few runners ahead of me - all of us on the hard sand, the beach getting more and more quiet as we headed further east. I walked a bit and ate my crisps. Spotted Stuart taking photographs again, tried to make a bad 'wave' joke, and carried on to the pebbles of doom...

Photo credit: Stuart Ross Media

Photo credit: Stuart Ross Media

The wheels came off in the pebbles somewhere. I'd been ticking along nicely up to this point - not feeling amazing given the heat, but feeling okay. I was taking it super steady, walking where I needed to. However the pebble bank on Lossiemouth beach was the start of a soul-destroying section of the route where you just couldn't get any momentum going. I ran where I could but it was almost impossible on some of that terrain. Sweeper Pete has posted a video of the route which at 16 minutes in shows what it was like: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TFvbe6cyf_0

Everyone I met during this section or for the rest of the day struggled with it. It just felt like it went on forever. That combined with the heat made this day a challenge that at times I really doubted I could complete. However I was determined to make it to the finish no matter what. It became a case of grinding it out - which is a shame because my main goal for this event was to enjoy it. I knew it would be hard - if it was easy everyone would do it - but I really wanted to enjoy myself. And I did at times! But this whole section felt like such a grind, and even after it was over, I really struggled to get momentum. I couldn't pick my feet up, I felt like they were weighed down. I kicked/tripped over four or five rocks on this section and stumbled, just feeling incapable of lifting my feet up to anything other than a stumble. Frustrating!

Photo credit: Stuart Ross Media

The rest of the day is pretty hazy because I felt pretty weary after this section and really had to work hard on not spiralling negatively. In hindsight I should've put some music on here, or listened to something to distract me - I carried my headphones all day but never used them! That was silly. 

We came inland after the long Lossiemouth stretch, to Kingston then Garmouth. The Garmouth aid station was perfectly placed - including for my supporters who'd had lunch at the Speyside Roasting Co. and seemed to be having an enjoyable afternoon out and about! Helped by the amazing aid station marshal and my family support, I got my flasks filled up again, more electrolytes in, picked up crisps, banana and wee can of Fanta from my drop bag but again abandoned the Mars Bar! More water in the cap, thanks Ross!

Leaving Garmouth I had a much needed catch up with Roberta, who sorted my head out. I had got quite low after the pebbles of doom, and doubt was really creeping in. We talked about taking the rest in bitesize pieces, not thinking too far ahead, being proud of coming this far. I'd been on the verge of tears when I left Garmouth and if I'd let myself cry it could've been a further spiral for me - who knows, it might've helped - but the chat with Roberta lifted my spirits and made me feel more positive again.

We jogged over the very cool viaduct over the River Spey, then round to Spey Bay, along the road for a bit then into a short forested section which was actually really nice. Here I met Robert again, who I hadn't seen since leaving Forres. Together with him and a lady called Kirsty, the three of us leapfrogged each other regularly all the way from here to the finish. One would go ahead, then walk, another would overtake, then walk. We'd run together for a bit, a bit of chat, a bit of reassurance when the route seemed unclear. Those two, probably without knowing it, really got me to the finish line. Especially enjoyed the chat with Robert as we ran into Buckie and the final aid station at Buckpool (approx 43 miles). (Mustn't forget to mention my cousin John running a stretch with me at Portgordon, saying all the right encouraging things and generally being a legend all day!)

Buckie felt like it went on forever! It was strange being back on the tarmac again. At the final aid station I saw Andrew, Sarah, Arran, William and John and they were full of encouraging words about being nearly there. I really doubted whether I had anything left to give, but I wasn't coming all this way not to finish! I had to get it done - which sounds like I'm wishing it away a bit, but it was a mental battle by this point. 

I enjoyed the novelty of seeing new places like bonnie wee Findochty (Ross was here cheering too, kindly looking after Tig to make Dave's life a bit easier!) and pretty Portknockie (mum and dad taking pictures of the struggle!). 

I really enjoyed seeing Bow Fiddle Rock for the first time; the thought of seeing it definitely got me there!

From then on I started to pass walkers who said "not far to go now" and "nearly there" which is super encouraging, but Cullen still seemed not to get any closer. Eventually I came round a corner and could see the distinctive railway bridge that the finish line was located underneath - it still felt so far away! We had to side shuffle down some steps, round some rocks (still not sure I picked the right route here but couldn't see an alternative!) then along a long section of busy sandy beach all the way to Cullen. A couple of young beach-goers said well done, and I saw Tom's partner again which was lovely!

Then up some steps - hi to Ross - and into a car park seeking out the elusive orange finish line carpet!

I pictured this moment being flooded with emotions, bursting into tears and feeling on top of the world. In reality I crossed the line, asked Kyle if I could stop now, and felt...I don't know, I guess a mixture of things all at once, probably mostly relief. Hugs all round and eventually I waddled my way to the sea. I'd been so looking forward to a post-run dip but it was far too stony at this section and I really challenged my feet trying to pick my way into the water! Ah well, I got my swim at Hopeman the next day!

I finished in 9 hours 44 minutes, which ended up being higher in the field than I would've expected but the hot temperatures definitely played their part in that. I was 7th female across the line, and 23rd/64 overall. I couldn't have given anymore, I wasn't aiming for a time, but there was some satisfaction at coming under the 10 hour mark.

In hindsight I'd put pressure on myself to do that because a 10 hour finish was 5pm, and I knew it would make life a bit easier if I finished earlier than 5pm for feeding a four year old and trying to keep some kind of structure or routine about the day. It sounds ridiculous but it was definitely in my mind. Also in hindsight, as much as I want to inspire my daughter, she is still very young and events like these actually take away a lot from family time - I've pondered whether it was worth it. Yes I got a huge sense of achievement but it came with a lot of guilt for being away a lot, and being out of action for days whilst I tried to recover. It was unfortunate Dave was ill because the guilt was worse knowing I was pretty much useless in parenting. And did I really inspire her all that much being away for 10 hours?

A few days later she was telling me that the medal was hers, and I said we'd have to share it: "mummy ran a long way to get that medal" I said. Her reply: "well I had to drive a long way to get it" - can't argue with that!

Post-event:

I'm writing this ten days post-event and I do feel proud of myself. However I have had to reevaluate some of my loftier running goals. I found this ultra marathon really humbled me and I just wonder if it is the right time for me to be attempting such things when I still have a young child. I'm struggling to balance making the most of my ability to undertake such events with the guilt of being away and the lack of parenting that subsequently follows such an undertaking. I'm trying to balance training and completing events with family life and I don't feel I'm getting the balance right. I've felt selfish and wondered why I can't wait a few more years until she's a bit older. I should be spending time with her, not shuffling over pebbles in 24 degrees for ten hours!

Despite Dave being ill, we did have a lovely few days post-ultra where we felt like we were on holiday - ice cream, lots of paddling, the occasional beer, and plenty of rest. I was sore for 2 days - the Sunday sea swim helped - then my legs felt okay but my left foot was very painful, maybe tendonitis. I was sunburnt from the event and that was tiring. I also wasn't sleeping amazingly so I just felt knackered, and honestly I still do.

I haven't run since but I'm hoping to feel up to that soon. I've been walking and a wee bit of cycling with Totty, so I'm mostly keeping active. Next weekend I'll be walking 26 miles with Dad and Ross round Ullswater to raise money for Alzheimer's Society: https://www.justgiving.com/fundraising/PeterHelenRoss

Then I'm due to run the Strathearn Marathon on 9th June. I've been very fatigued recently and so whilst I haven't done any specific training for these events, I hope my fitness is at a level where I can finish them both, no matter how long it takes!

I've said "never again" about an event like the Moray Coastal Trail 50 a few times since, and at the moment I'm still sticking to it. My lofty life goals involved completing the epic West Highland Way events such as the Highland Fling (Milngavie to Tyndrum) and the Devil O' the Highlands (Tyndrum to Fort William) with perhaps the full thing being achievable in the next decade or so! Now I'm not so sure about those goals. In the immediate aftermath I said I'd stick to half marathon distance with the occasional full marathon thrown in there, but having revisited my Dava Way blog and having such an incredible day running 50k, I wouldn't say I've ruled out ultras entirely. I just need to be sensible with what my brain thinks it can achieve and what I actually can achieve! My brain during these events is not always helpful.

Anyway, that's a long-winded way of finishing. If I have maxed out at 47 miles then I couldn't think of a better place or better event to do it at!

Final thoughts:

Huge thanks to everyone involved in the day - Kyle, Debbie, all the volunteers especially Roberta, Stuart Ross, all the other entrants who helped in such a big way to get me to the finish

Huge thanks to every family member who spent hours that day supporting me - you are all legends! 

My "secret" to finishing this event - mashed potato with salted butter and sea salt - squeezed out a plastic bag like a gel. Sounds and looks disgusting but was incredible on the day! I had no stomach issues at all (I also enjoyed rocky road, fizzy sweets, crisps, coke, bananas) and cannot imagine consuming those sports gels with artificial ingredients again! Tattie is where it's at :)