Monday 23 April 2012

Fun and frolics on the Fife Coastal Path

Like an excitable child on Christmas day, I awoke on Saturday morning ready to get up and get walking! I had actually packed my bag two days earlier and couldn't wait to - well, to put it like a certain Borders man would - get a jeldy on!

Myself and that Borders man left Edinburgh in the morning and headed straight to the Kingdom of Fife. We spent most of our day driving up, down, round and over some of Fife's finest villages. We worked as we went, and it was only when we got to Anstruther that I realised I'd neglected my camera. The following scene caught my eye, mostly because it summed up Fife in just one photo. History, beach, golf:


Eventually we weaved our way round the coast all the way to St Andrews, the home of golf and Scotland's oldest university. Both myself and Dave have spent a lot of time in St Andrews over the years of touring, but this time I was seeing it with new eyes. No matter how you look at it, it is simply a great town.

After some sleep and a tasty breakfast, I was so ready to get the show on the road - or should I say, my feet on the road. Today we were walking from Leuchars to Newport-on-Tay, a distance of around 12 miles, and the final stage of the Fife Coastal Path. We'd had such a great walk from Crail to St Andrews last September, and I was just feeling so good to be out and about again.

All kitted up, I was definitely more than ready to go:













(ok OKAY so I definitely did not need my new poles on this walk, and I carried them with me 12 miles for no reason, but to be totally honest, I felt like a pro-walker and that was all that mattered to me!)

There was a bit of tramping to be doing at first, once we'd passed RAF Leuchars. Thankfully, at the boggiest parts, there were wooden boards to walk along, ensuring our feet were kept dry:

Onwards through the delicious-smelling gorse, until eventually we came out onto a road - the road that leads to Tentsmuir forest and beach. We walked along the road for about a mile and a half, encountering many friendly people along the way. For me, I loved the tree-lined photo opportunities to be had:

 
 
















A sunny Sunday morning made for many happy people; we saw families out for bike rides, so many dogs, walkers, runners, cyclists...it was lovely to see, and even better, people were really friendly and jovial. Restores your faith in people, and made me think that if I was a tourist, I'd be impressed at the friendliness. I'm sure the sunshine had a part to play, especially as the forecast was for rain but there was no sign of that here.

We walked many miles through Tentsmuir, and rewarded ourselves at the end with a sandwich stop:



From there, we left the beach behind, and skirted around the Firth of Tay. The path took us through the streets and caravan parks of Tayport, and the clouds got darker and more ominous as we strolled on...













Then we got some of that rain that was predicted...I was secretly thrilled to test out my new hood on my new jacket...I may be a loser, but I'm a happy loser!

On we went, weaving our way round houses, cats, puddles, harbours, with the Tay getting closer. The rain was never too heavy, and we even saw a steam train across the water. The last part wasn't overly exciting, walking alongside the main road. It was quite dreich. But it made for a misty atmospheric view of the Tay Bridge:


And then - there we were. In the carpark of the Tay Bridge, feeling like we'd walked the whole Fife Coastal Path. I always feel a great sense of achievement after completing a walk (even if it's just a walk to work), and this was no different.

From there we strolled along to Newport-on-Tay and waited for the bus. We had to get the bus over to Dundee first, and then connect with another heading to Leuchars, so we got double the fun on the Tay Bridge. By this point the rain was bouncing off the pavement, but we were safe and dry on the bumpy bus. And perfectly, by the time we reached Leuchars, we were back in the sunshine. We walked a mile or so back to the car, and high-fived our success.

Despite the sore legs and hungry stomachs, it wasn't time for home just yet. We drove back from Leuchars and I finished my research on the last part of the Fife Coastal Path. A fantastic walk, thoroughly enjoyable, good company, many different things to be seen. As always, a great day out. And to finish, some fun:


Wednesday 18 April 2012

got the kit, need the walks...

I've recently 'pimped' almost my entire walking wardrobe, and so now more than ever I am raring to get going!

A recent birthday brought a lot of walking accessories - a compass, a torch, a waterproof watch, a lightweight tshirt, a new fleece...I also treated myself to a new day bag, a Carolina-blue waterproof jacket, and - very exciting - a pair of walking poles.

All kitted out and nowhere to go? Far from it...this weekend is taking me out on the Fife Coastal Path for research purposes, and there has just got to be a Munro lurking around the next week or so...

Saturday 7 April 2012

a lovely walk 'doon the Borders'

This time last week we were all enjoying the hottest March on record...sunbathing, eating and drinking outside, wearing our summer attire...and for me, waiting excitedly for walking opportunities. Last weekend was spent catching up with family, and walks were being planned for this weekend...

But then, as it tends to do so often, Scotland's weather decided to spring another season on us. Temperatures dropped, snow fell, and Munro-bagging seemed even less likely. Those lessons learned from Meall nan Tarmachan were still fresh in my mind, and I didn't want to get halfway up another snow-covered mountain only to have to turn back again. And so a new plan was hatched...

Good Friday took us down to the beautiful Borders, for a pleasant amble on the Borders Abbeys Way. Good research for me, and a good celebration of my first ever bank holiday off work. Myself, Dave and Gibson left the car in Melrose and took a ride with my mum and dad to St Boswells, where we parked up and started our walk. We started out through the pretty village, and then down to the wee 9 hole golf course.
 
We walked alongside the golf course, with quite a few golfers out there, and followed the river Tweed along. We had to come up to the road and cross over the river, but fortunately the road wasn't busy. We then walked up through the delightful village of Clintmains, where I can but dream of living one day...here's where I'd fill my tractor up:

                                    
The path then took us back down alongside the Tweed, but on the other side. It was only a couple of miles to Dryburgh, and it was pleasant, easy walking. At that moment it was dry, and the views of the Eildons were simply getting better with each step.


We reached Dryburgh and its Abbey, and continued to the Temple of the Muses for a spot of lunch beside the Tweed. An Easter-themed lunch of course, with hot cross buns and chocolate eggs. But yet again the weather had other ideas, and we were soon moved on by the rain. Again over the Tweed, and up to a lovely viewpoint:


We kept ambling, and most of my energy was spent taking my jacket off, and putting it back on again. And taking it off. It was warm, then chilly, then warm once more. The rain was sporadic, and never heavy. The skies were mostly grey and cloudy, but the Borders looks good whatever the weather.

The path then took us through Newtown St Boswells, which is perhaps slightly lacking in charm in comparison to its older counterpart. We did watch a very skillful piece of driving through the narrow streets:

There was a bit more road walking to be done here, and the old road out of Newtown St Boswells (used before they built the main road) was very hilly. Up we went, and back down again. But because the road is closed now, it was nice to be able to stroll without having to worry about cars. Again, the Eildons were looking great and spring was attempting to get through the changes in weather. A field of oil seed rape was beginning to turn yellow, a sure sign that May is fast approaching...

We passed the stone commemorating Thomas the Rhymer, who fell asleep under a tree and awoke to find the Queen of the Faeries upon a grey horse. She led him to Faerieland, where he thought he had stayed only 3 days...but it had been seven years! When he left he was given the gift of speaking the truth (not rare for a Borders man mind) and he went on to correctly prophecise the death of two kings, and the building of a bridge over the Tweed. There were no sightings of the Faerie Queen for us, but Melrose was not far away...


No Faerie Queens, but perhaps we found her noble stead:


After a wee chat with our new four-legged friend, we continued towards Melrose, which we could see in the distance. Our backpacks and boots must have given us away; when we passed a local chap he asked in his endearing Borders twang: "Ye been fir hike?" And from there Melrose was just a few paces away.

What a lovely end to a walk:




If you haven't visited Dalgettys' new sit-in tearoom yet - get there as soon as you can. Melrose was busy; already setting up for the Sevens next weekend. Rugby, an Abbey, delicious tarts...Melrose has got it all.

Thoroughly enjoyed our wee amble on the Borders Abbeys Way, and I look forward to doing the rest of it sometime...