Blue skies and 20 miles in the Borders

I'd hoped to get to the hills at some point this weekend but sometimes you just have to accept that it's not meant to be. Thank goodness the hills will always be there, for whenever I am ready.

Instead I found myself searching for a circular walk, in the Borders, of around 20 miles or so. And where else would I look but Walk Highlands! (Although that name sometimes seems ironic when you're searching for a walk in the Lowlands!). I found exactly what I was looking for.

The Harden Hills Circular. I lived on Harden Place in Edinburgh for years, never realising that it was a Borders name. This walk was exactly what I was looking for for Easter Friday, and it just felt right. I wanted to challenge myself, to push myself, and to prove to myself that I could walk 20 miles in one go. Dave and I had done so in County Wicklow just a few weeks ago, but I wanted to see if I could go it alone. I needed a confidence booster - and I always get one from completing a long walk.

I'd been to school badminton tournaments in Duns before, but I couldn't remember anything about the place. I was looking forward to seeing a part of the Borders that was basically entirely new to me.

Just a 40 minute drive from home, I set off on Friday morning so excited about the day ahead. The sky was saltire blue, with not a cloud to be seen.

I have to admit though, this is not my favoured walking weather. I often don't like walking in the sunshine as I get far too hot. However when I left the house there was a distinct chilly breeze, and so I thought I'd be fine. The word "sunscreen" never entered my head...

I enjoyed the drive over to Duns, through Lauder and Greenlaw. Once I'd parked the car I set off just after 10am. The walk leaves Duns via Castle Street, and immediately enters the Duns Estate, heading for Duns Castle. Well, I didn't know Duns had a castle - and I didn't know how impressive it was!

Although the Castle is private, I got a few wee glimpses from the gate.

 

 

 

The walk takes a right turn here, heading for the amusingly named Hen Poo Loch. Despite its name, it's a beautiful spot! You could just see Duns Castle, looking back the way.

 

There were a couple of other people strolling, and I spotted one photographer (this is a well kent wildlife-spotting area), but other than that I didn't see anyone else all day. I very much enjoyed the solitude I found.

Once I got to the other side of the loch, I headed for a forestry path that took me through the woods and out towards Black Hill. I spotted this delightful butterfly, that stayed alongside me for a few minutes.

Soon I reached the top of the woods, and the views started to open up around me.

 

 

 

I really enjoyed this section of strolling - it was straightforward and the views were spectacular. I couldn't believe how blue the sky was, and the fact that there wasn't a single other person to be seen. I felt quite warm at this point, and although I was only an hour or so into the walk, I felt for some reason like I'd gone a lot further.

My next landmark was the bizarrely named Snuffy Hole car park, and here I stood in the same spot that Rabbie Burns did, apparently when he first viewed Duns and the Merse. There's a plaque to commemorate this:

From the car park, I walked briefly alongside the Longformacus road, before heading back up towards Black Hill, and then over to what I will call the 'wind turbine section' of the walk.

I could see the Eildons in the distance, looking quite small against the big blue sky.

 

 

 

The route notes talked about this being a particularly boggy section of the walk, and they were not wrong. Even on a dry day, after a dry week, it was squelchy going underfoot. I imagine it would be very glaury after any rain whatsoever.

As I had shorts on, I had very mud spattered calves after this bit. I also had my trainers on as I wanted to test how far my feet would go in them, prior to the Moon Walk. My right trainer came home a lot muddier than my left, as I always seemed to step right foot first into the muddy bits!

I've never really been this close to wind turbines before, and I found it a little eerie. I could hear their 'swish swishing' as I walked underneath, although the sheep that nestled in the shade beneath them seemed unbothered.

After passing turbines 21 and 20, I got a little bit confused with the route. Partly driver-error I'm sure, but I think the farmer has erected a wee fold where there wasn't before. Enclosed were hay-bales and sheep with lambs, so I couldn't get to the gate I was supposed to. After jumping a fence, I first went left then second-guessed myself and went right. Only when I trampled downhill through this field, along the fence running alongside a burn, and reached the other side did I realise I had gone completely wrong. I was furious at myself for making a stupid mistake. I was hot and hungry, and now had to go back uphill to the turbines and try to find where the path continued.

I eventually did, but I was absolutely raging at myself for going wrong. To be fair the route notes were a bit tricky to decipher with the addition of this new obstacle, but the fact that I had originally gone the correct way was the bit I was most annoyed about. I probably added around 45 minutes on to my day, but with more than half of the 20 miles still to go, it wasn't ideal at all.

Anyway, I got back on track and headed on. I knew I wasn't far from reaching where the Southern Upland Way joined the route, so I was looking forward to a bit less navigation!

Then I spotted my first cows of the day, and for a horrible moment thought I was going to have to walk through their field. After my scary experience in Ireland, I was not keen and would have done anything to avoid this. Thankfully a stile took me to the other side of their fence, and I could wave merrily at them from safety.

I passed an old farm ruin, then joined the Southern Upland Way.

 

I always enjoy a walk when I'm on a well-signed path and therefore this section was quite nice - I could let my mind wander as I strolled along.

I reached a road, then had to head uphill on the other side. I actually left the Southern Upland Way at the top of this hill, which was a wee bit disappointing, but my route was taking me into Hen Toe Burn Wood. I passed some adorable lambs before entering the woods - there were many, many sheep and lambs on this day.

The walk through the woods was pleasant enough - as always there is forestry work going on, but it didn't cause me any problems. After a section on the forestry path, I reached another road at the end of the woods, and followed this towards Windshiel.

The route meandered its way past a few houses and farms, alongside the B6355, and then into the fields once again. Here I had to dodge round a few lambs and I felt bad for waking them up from their dozing in the sunshine. I always get nervous around sheep - I refuse to believe they are more scared of me than I am of them.

Again I got a bit confused by the route notes around here - I think because a new fence has been put up that runs along the field in question. Thankfully the way-markers are up to date, and I picked my way across yet another field. Then another, and another. I knew I was trying to get into a wooded section, but I must have missed the sign that pointed me in. So I upset more sheep and lambs by waking them up, and I got to a point where I felt very frustrated. The route hadn't been simple for the past hour or so; it was now 4pm and again I felt hungry, tired and far from Duns.

Thankfully, thankfully, I didn't have too much further to go. I started taking photos again, having been so concentrated on my route notes since I left the Southern Upland Way.

Passing Plendernethy Hill (I was so worried for a moment that I had to go up it!), the route took me into Jeanie's Wood and all of a sudden I realised I was back in the woods I had started in.

Delightful! I was so relieved, as it was getting later in the day. As I always do when I know the end is not far away, I picked up the pace. I rejoined the path around Hen Poo Loch, and once again enjoyed the lovely stroll around this lovely part of the Borders. Surely a hidden gem, there were barely any people around enjoying this wonderful evening.

I reached Castle Street, and was now not far at all from completion.

I got back to my car (not pictured above!) at just after half past 5, seven and a half hours after setting off. The route is just shy of 20 miles according to the Walk Highlands description, but I reckoned I'd done a wee bit more given my foray around the field after the wind farm.

I wasn't as tired as I thought I'd be, and felt very chuffed with myself for completing this epic trail. My trainers had done well, and although my toes were a wee bit tender, I was happy not to have very sore feet.

I'd had a marvellous day - I had discovered a new part of the Scottish Borders, I had enjoyed a challenging walk, and I had spent the whole day outside. For every hour I would've been stuck at my desk normally, I walked miles.

I'd seen sheep, lambs, cows, horses, ducks, chickens, swans, birds of all sizes, butterflies - and hardly any other people!

Once home, I realised I had a wee touch of sunburn. Then I realised I had rather a big touch of sunburn - my forehead, nose and arms were rather pink - the back of my neck and the back of my calves were very red indeed! As it had been quite breezy, I genuinely hadn't realised I was burning. I stupidly didn't even think that this April sun would be hot enough. It seems daft now, given that I was out in it for seven and a half hours, but I didn't think I would get sunburnt.

It is rather sore now! I look and feel very silly but it has taken my mind off feeling sore anywhere else - so I'm delighted to have managed a 20 mile walk. I have taken confidence from this, having proved to myself that I can do it.

An old favourite, revisited

Having moved to the Scottish Borders, any time I've been able to get out on a walk has generally been within the vicinity of God's own country - we moved to the countryside for the fresh air and so it makes sense to spend our spare time exploring what's on our doorstep.

It therefore felt rather odd to drive back into Edinburgh for last Sunday's walk! However, it's nice to be reminded of all the reasons I love the city. I'm there every week day for work, but I never really see Edinburgh. Now I've moved away from the city I'm able to view it differently, and this made for an interesting day exploring an old favourite stroll.

My pal Amanda and I planned to walk the length of the Water of Leith; she in training for a 26 mile walk to raise money for ME (www.justgiving.com/AJMac4Kaz), and I am training for the Half Moon Walk.

The Water of Leith is a walk I'd done in its entirety twice before with Dave, and parts of it frequently as a resident of Polwarth. I was looking forward to revisiting it as a 'visitor' to Edinburgh, and to spending some good quality time with a good friend.

Amanda and I set off from Balerno at 10.30am, and we set quite a quick pace for ourselves. I really enjoyed the first part of the walk, through leafy woodland, past fields with horses and sheep, alongside the water. People - running, walking, cycling - said hello, and it just made for some very pleasant strolling.

We saw lots of dogs too, and they usually stopped for a chat!

Soon we reached the Visitor Centre at Slateford, which is a brilliant facility. From there, the walk became more urbanised as we got closer to the city centre. We passed Murrayfield, and Amanda spotted a great opportunity for a few jumping photos, which are always such fun.

From there, a lovely stroll took us to Dean Village, which is just a beautiful part of Edinburgh. Nearby is Stockbridge, the Colonies, Canonmills, and then you edge ever closer to Leith.

By the time we reached the Shore it was almost 3pm, and we felt quite tired and ready for a rest! I took Amanda to the only place Dave and I would go after completing the Water of Leith - Teuchter's Landing - for macaroni cheese in a mug! You just cannae beat it.

I could have fallen asleep in my seat. I felt exhausted, although of course there was the great sense of achievement that we'd just walked 13 miles.

Then I wished I lived in the city again, to save me having to get a bus back to the car and then drive 45 minutes home!

It was a lovely walk - good company, lots to see, jumping photos, delicious food at the end - what more could you want?!

It's also always nice to test yourself and your fitness. I felt much sorer the next day, and the day after that, than I did after a day of 20 miles on the Wicklow Way. I'm not sure why.

And now, on the eve of turning 28, I have to admit to myself that I have not achieved the target I set myself of 28 Munros by age 28. I am disappointed I was unable to achieve this - I worry that for some reason this year I will not achieve my goals and I will disappoint myself.

Only I can break this cycle...perhaps tomorrow I will be older and wiser and figure out how!