Picture-perfect Pentlands

I grew up with the Pentlands on my doorstep, but only in recent years have I come to realise the amazing walking possibilities available in this famous range of hills.

I've since had some truly memorable days out in the Pentlands, including a very windy day with mum, dad and Dave, a great walk round some of the reservoirs with Dad, a snowy stroll to West Linton at the start of this year, and a challenging West Highland Way training walk from Polwarth to West Linton the week after!

I hadn't done the 'ridge' walk between Flotterstone and Nine Mile Burn since that windy day, almost two years ago. Because it was so memorable I've been itching to do the route again, and was delighted to invite myself along to a planned walk with my mum and dad's walking crew.

I enjoy walks with this lot; it's always entertaining and there's usually plenty of food involved.

The plan was to get the 8.56am bus from West Linton to Flotterstone, then walk to Carlops for lunch at the Allan Ramsey. To get to West Linton from my new home in Stow takes around an hour - unfortunately there's not a very logical route cross-country. I aimed to leave the house at 7.45am to get to West Linton just in time to get the bus. So I planned to set my alarm for 7am...but for some unknown reason I set it for 8am. I realised around 8.15am - as I was getting ready - that something had gone a bit wrong in the detail of my plan. I couldn't believe it - I'd never make it to West Linton in time for the bus now.

I do get very frustrated when I have a plan in my mind and things don't go according to that plan. It's an annoying habit of mine to plan everything in advance in my head, go through all the details and all the potential pitfalls. Sometimes it inhibits me from living in the moment, as I'm too busy worrying about what is coming next. It's not a way of thinking that works very well, although I have done it for a very long time. It occasionally has its uses but not often.

I was absolutely raging at myself that I'd set my alarm for 8 instead of 7. I really gave myself a hard time, but I was also determined that this wouldn't let me miss the walk. It was a beautiful day out there, so I quickly got ready, jumped in my car and flew up the A7. What a lovely drive it was - blue skies, autumnal colours, quiet roads. I got to Flotterstone in 35 minutes.

I beat the bus crew by about 10 minutes, and no harm had been done by my silly mistake. It did take a while for me to stop being annoyed at myself about it though!

We set off shortly after 9.30am.

boys in blue setting off

There were a few others out and about, but not as many as I'd have expected, given the quality of the day.

I knew there was an uphill struggle ahead, and wondered how my out-of-practice legs would cope. Although there was an icy wind, it was very warm with the sun beating down and with so many layers on. We plodded on, gaining height with every step. Mum and I stopped to take a layer off, and unfortunately mum managed to leave her walking poles leaning against a gate - only realising when she'd almost reached the top of the hill! It's tough heading up once, but doing it twice is not ideal!

There's a few wee summits to conquer before Scald Law, the highest peak in the Pentlands at 1898 feet, is reachable.

Alun, Moira & Mum

 

 

 

Scald Law is testing, but as always with a testing summit, the reward is well worth it. A great sense of achievement to reach the marker post at the summit - the views were tremendous.

 

The clouds were really coming in by this point - the clear blue skies we'd enjoyed earlier were now behind us. Rain was forecast later in the day, so I was hoping we'd be safely inside when it came!

I do love a jumping photo wherever I go, and today was no different. Thank you very much to Alun for sending over these pictures:

 

We continued from Scald Law over to the Kips, which are short and sharp to ascend. The views were wonderful of course, and I enjoyed looking down to the path I'd taken from Harlaw earlier this year.

I was relying on my phone for photos today, and it spat the dummy before I could get any good Kip pictures. When it came back to life, we were lower down and looking back up.

 

We joined the path to Nine Mile Burn, and again I enjoyed the reminiscing about my walks over this way in February. It had looked very different in the snow, and I'd struggled to find the path. On a day like today it was so obvious and unmissable.

The path gently descends to Nine Mile Burn, where we said goodbye to Alun, and the two Tims and I continued along the old Roman Road to Carlops. Just as we were reaching Carlops the rain began, but thankfully the warm welcome of the Allan Ramsey was within our sights. Somehow time had marched on and it was nearly 3pm. I got a lift back to my car at Flotterstone, a minor inconvenience certainly not worthy of the hard time I'd given myself. The car park was now packed, having been fairly quiet in the morning - I couldn't help but feel that all these people had missed the best of the day.

Back in Carlops, lunch was delighful. We'd only had a few snacks on the hills and were hungry now. It's just unfortunate that the Scotland v South Africa game ruined the digestion!

All in all it had been a great day out in the Pentlands; good company, good weather, and stunning views across Edinburgh and the Borders.

I do love these crisp winter days, chilly but clear. Another of these days came this week, and I was able to take a short walk to the local church and Stow's lovely 'Bridge to Nowhere':

 

I am already making walking plans for 2014, but hopefully there's at least a couple more winter walks to come...stay tuned!

Skye: not an island but an intoxication

Just two weeks after moving house, we found ourselves packing our bags again. We'd planned a trip to Skye to tie in with Dave's birthday, and to see good friends of ours who'd recently moved to the Misty Isle.

It had been almost a year and a half since my last trip to Skye, and this was far too long. There was a period of my life when I spent one day a week driving a Rabbies bus round the island, showing my passengers as much as I could in a day. I would often drive the loop round the Trotternish peninsula in the morning, taking photos of the Old Man of Storr, exploring Lealt Falls, seeing Kilt Rock, taking a stroll at the Quiraing, and occasionally visiting the Faerie Glen. After lunch in Portree I'd head west to Neist Point. I absolutely love the drive out there, and relished the challenge of manoeuvering my wee bus round the tight corners as the road weaves its way west. I found such solitude out there - even on the days there were hoards of other people - I always found a quiet spot to myself.

I got to know the island quite well during my time as a tour guide, although I did tend to stick to the same routine on each visit. I was happy to do so; I was showing off as many highlights as I could in one day, and it seemed to work. However I always appreciated the trips Dave and I took out with of work, where we explored parts of Skye slightly off the beaten track. Trips to the coral beaches, the Faerie pools, Elgol, and Sleat provided me with a better understanding and appreciation of the Misty Isle.

I so miss going though, and will always try to fit in a trip when possible. Dave and I were really excited to stay with our friends Bill and Line, who moved to Skye in the summer, to a wee croft outside of Portree.

The drive up was, as always, amazing, with the light and clouds doing truly amazing things.

 

 

 

 

I love love love the drive down Glen Shiel; it has been a favourite for a long time and it never fails to disappoint. It's such a great lead up to arriving on Skye.

Unfortunately it was dark by the time we arrived on the island, but we knew we'd see it properly the next day. It was a chilly evening, but we received a warm welcome from Bill and got straight into the wine!

After a great evening of catching up, we retired to bed - in a tent! Everyone said we were mad to sleep in a tent on Skye in November, but I have to be honest it wasn't proper camping - we had a lamp, a heater, a double mattress, and an electric blanket :) That's what I call camping!

Saturday night was a cold one though - we woke up to find ice outside the tent and a temperature of minus 2!

 

Once the shock of the cold had passed, we realised that we'd struck gold - this was one of those amazing crisp cold blue sky Skye days that you just live for.

I have to mention the amazing breakfast our hosts made for us - scrambled egg and smoked salmon has to be the best way to start your day!

Bill and Line planned to take us to the north of the Trotternish peninsula, to explore an area we'd never been to before. Once we'd finally agreed on where we were going, after much debate, I couldn't wait to get there and get out on this beautiful day.

The views out to the Outer Hebrides were absolutely spectacular - I couldn't believe how lucky we were to have a day such as this. Having spent so much time on Skye (nowhere near as much as Dave and Bill!) I know how fickle the weather can be, and how rare these days are. I had to pinch myself - we'd picked our day pretty well :)

We drove out to Duntulm, and parked just a bit further along from the castle. Bill and Line led the way as we made our way out to Rubha Hunish, the most northerly point of Skye.

 

 

 

 

We made it to this most amazing bothy - what a special place. The panoramas were simply breathtaking, and I felt so lucky to be there.

We made use of the bothy to have our delicious packed lunch, and soak up those tremendous views.

 

 

Then it was time for jumping photos!!

obviously not a jumping photo, but I like it a lot!

 

jump Bill!!

After we got that out of our systems, we made our way down to the very edge of the Trotternish peninsula.

It was a pretty steep drop down initially, and certainly looked dramatic.

 

Once we were down though, the views were simply tremendous! Looking back up to the cliffs above us was extremely impressive, and I loved what the clouds were doing. Soon, the rock formations looked very familiar to what we'd seen on Staffa.

 

 

Frolicking on the rocks felt like being a child again - there was so much to see, so much beauty around us, so many wee nooks and crannies to explore.

I find it very peaceful to watch the movements of the sea, to watch the water crashing over rocks.

 

 

 

It was tough to drag myself away from this beautiful spot. We had it all to ourselves and I felt very at peace.

However time was marching on and it would be dark soon. We wanted to try and get back up to Duntulm before darkness so we really had to drag ourselves away. But before we left Rubha Hunish Bill and Line wanted to show us an amazing sea arch - and there was just time for one more jumping picture!

 

 

 

Rubha Hunish is really one of those special places to visit, and yet again I discovered another part of Skye, another fascinating place on an intoxicating island.

Heading back up the rocky cliff was a bit of a struggle - I did feel out of shape and I was annoyed it had been so long since I'd had a good walk.

Once we got back to the top, the clouds had changed since earlier, and there was stormy weather coming in. The last of the daylight we enjoyed on this special Sunday was even better for these interesting clouds, and I felt so privileged to be watching the sunset here at Duntulm.

 

 

This was one of the best days I've had on Skye, out of many. The company certainly had a lot to do with that, but the weather was definitely the star of the show. Blue skies as far as the eye could see, clear views of the Outer Hebrides, and astonishing panoramas of the mainland and its snow-capped mountains.

A homemade Thai green curry accompanied by plenty more wine was a fitting end to a phenomenal day, and although I was tired the stormy Skye winds ensured I didn't have quite the peaceful night as the day!

Thankfully the tent stayed exactly where it was!

The next day brought cloudier weather, although of course Skye was still as beautiful as ever. Before we left the island Dave and I took a wee trip to the Faerie Glen - his favourite place to go, and fast becoming one of mine. I love to climb to the top of Euan's Castle and admire my surroundings.

 

 

 

As always it was incredibly difficult to leave Skye behind, but of course we'll back soon.

 

 

Thank you Bill and Line for having us and showing us one of your favourite places to go on Skye - now one of ours too :) You made camping in November quite the experience - and not a cold one!

It's good for my soul to feel that fresh Skye air blowing the cobwebs away...not an island, but an intoxication.

This song sums up the weekend for me. Thank you Bill for introducing me to this amazing song, by Borders band Frightened Rabbit. It is perfect: