The West Highland Way - a week of sun, snow & success!

Wow. It is an incredibly surreal feeling to be back in my flat in Edinburgh, attempting to condense the last week into a coherent blog post. Really I just want to write I WALKED THE WEST HIGHLAND WAY AND I CAN'T BELIEVE IT but I think I should try a little harder than that.

It's hard to know where to begin. At the beginning is probably a good place. Even that is difficult though, because the walk didn't start from Milngavie last Friday, it started a while before that. I don't think the West Highland Way was really on my radar until I became a tour guide. Every time I drove the A82 north from Tyndrum, I'd see walkers strolling alongside the railway line. Without fail, I'd see people every day I drove past. I talked a little bit about it on tour, but I never once thought it'd be something I did. Working for a walking holiday company obviously massively increased my exposure to the West Highland Way, and it planted the seed in my mind that perhaps one day I could do it.

By the end of 2012 it was all I could think about it. I knew it was time to start thinking seriously about putting plans into place. By the end of January this year the majority of those plans were in place! It started to feel a bit more real, and the weekends were spent trying to get fitter. As March arrived, I was collecting kit, plasters and socks like a fiend.

All of a sudden I found myself on a train to Milngavie in the snow wondering how on earth this had happened so suddenly, and questioning whether I was actually ready or fit enough. The weather was giving me serious cause for concern. I'd been so optimistic about the weather after those lovely few weeks of sunshine. As soon as it took a turn for the worse and the snow came, I was really worried. What was I letting myself in for? Was I making a massive mistake in choosing the end of March?

Yet here I was. The night before I was due to start. I was nervous, and I was excited. I wanted to get going!


Day One: Milngavie to Drymen - 12 miles

I'd been joined for the first two stages by my big brother Andrew, and we left Milngavie at 10.40am on Saturday 23rd March. It was cold and breezy, but not snowing - thank goodness!

Soon after leaving the town centre we were into Mugdock Country Park and enjoying the snowy scenes around us. There were lots of dog walkers out and about, and it was a great start to the 96 miles ahead.

Soon we had left the park and were out into the open. The views of Dumgoyne Hill ahead of us were impressive.

My brother with his long stride set a fast pace, but it was a good pace, and we were chomping through the miles. Once we reached Glengoyne Distillery we were around the halfway point for day one, and feeling good.

I enjoyed this poetic effort outside the Beech Tree Inn:

The trail from there followed the former line of the Glasgow to Aberfoyle railway, which made for straightforward walking. We stopped to eat our packed lunch, getting quite chilly in the process. However we marched on and made it to Drymen before 3pm. There had been a fair amount of tarmac pounding on day one, and I was very disappointed to have gained a blister on my right pinky toe. We were tired, but it was a nice feeling to get day one under my belt. It had been a good 'warm-up' day for the 84 miles now ahead!

We were welcomed into Drymen by this:

but unfortunately it had been the night before! After a couple of pints, some food and some brother/sister catching up, it was finally time to sleep!


Day Two: Drymen to Rowardennan - 14 miles

We awoke to blue skies, although I have to say it was very chilly outside! After a delicious breakfast we set off from Drymen just before 10am. We had to follow the Rob Roy Way for a couple of miles due to forestry work. This wasn't a big deal but it did mean the first part of the day involved more tarmac pounding and my wee feet weren't happy about this. We passed quite a number of people we hadn't seen the day before, and there was no question as to where the path went. Not for us anyway:

Around the halfway point of day two we reached Loch Lomond. I'd been looking forward to this moment for a while, and would now begin to walk the length of Britain's largest body of water (by surface area). I hadn't quite appreciated how tough this next section would be.

We'd decided not to take a packed lunch for today, but to keep fuelled up on our Mars Bars and bananas and have lunch when we reached the Rowardennan Hotel. However we had both underestimated how long it would take us to get from Balmaha to Rowardennan, and how undulating the path would be. As Andrew said, I never knew a loch-side path could have so many gradients. On the plus side, the views were tremendous, with Loch Lomond dazzling beside us and a snow-capped Ben Lomond ahead.

Within a couple of miles of Rowardennan I faced the first real 'tough' moments. Mentally and physically exhausted, I kept thinking the Rowardennan Hotel would appear around the next corner. Having thought this for about an hour and being constantly disappointed, it was taking its toll. I hadn't appreciated from driving the road to Rowardennan in the past that the path is weaving its way up, down and around in those trees. The hills were testing and tough.

Finally - finally - we reached the Hotel. I was delighted. It was around half past three, and we were both shattered and hungry. After a shower, and a delicious lunch/dinner of steak pie, it was time to chill out. This is where Andrew left me; having parked his car at the Hotel on the Friday night, he was back home to the Borders feeling just slightly sore.

And now I was on my own! I really appreciated my big brother's company for the first two days. His cheery attitude and positivity was exactly what I needed to start me off right. It was a little daunting to be on my own now, with 70 miles to go, but my spirits were high and I was looking forward to a challenging day ahead.


Day Three: Rowardennan to Inverarnan - 14 miles

I'd decided to go for breakfast at 8am and get out ahead of the 'crowds'. However around 30 others had the same idea! By the time I actually got going it was after 9, and snowing. The path headed towards the Hostel at Rowardennan, and along a good forestry track. The sun broke through the clouds above me, the snow stopped and I started to smile. I enjoyed this kind of walking a lot during the week - on a good track with great views around me.

As another benefit of walking in the 'winter', the icicles dangling down from the scenery around me were amazing. I couldn't stop snapping pictures as I went - some were longer than my arm!

I so greatly enjoyed the first half of today. Walking alongside Loch Lomond was an absolute pleasure. I knew I had tough terrain to come, but everything up to Inversnaid was thoroughly brilliant, and one of my favourite times of the week. I just felt so good - I was setting a good pace and enjoying each step.

Once I glimpsed the hydro-power station at Inveruglas on the other side of the loch, I knew I wasn't far from Inversnaid. I met three walkers from Glasgow who told me they were heading for Crianlarich - I didn't envy them one bit!

I stopped briefly at the Inversnaid Hotel to use their facilities, and took a moment to reflect on all the time I'd spent here during my time as a tour guide for Rabbies. One week I'd been down there around four or five times.

It's a beautiful place and will always hold a special place in my heart. However I didn't stop for long before I began to tackle one of the toughest sections of the West Highland Way. By this point I had already started to think of day three as a day of two halves. The first half I loved, the second half I found very hard going.

But I took my time and enjoyed my surroundings. I started to see the feral/wild goats that dot this section. I couldn't stop taking photos of them. Once again I felt so lucky walking at this time of year as the sight of the kids was special. This one was by far my favourite:

The way he stared at me as I walked past was quite intense!

After running this gauntlet of goats I persevered as the path twisted and turned its way alongside Loch Lomond. Sometimes there was no path at all, just a scramble up and down rocks. It was fun, but it did require concentration.

Soon it was time to stop for my packed lunch from the Hotel, which I enjoyed at the water's edge, and even managed to take some timer pictures of myself - I felt it was important to document that I was actually there, for the sake of my own memory more than anything!

I started to get a bit chilly so didn't stop for long. As I began walking again the sun came out and blue skies accompanied me for the rest of the day. I saw more goats, including one of the maddest sights I'd seen for a while - a goat perched on a branch! Now by this point I was feeling warm and tired, so I thought perhaps my eyes were playing tricks on me. As I ventured closer to get a photo I disrupted some geese making their way to the water. So I took a step back, watching the goats and geese, and feeling very at one with nature.

Goat on a branch

From here I plodded on, yearning for Inverarnan to come closer. Like yesterday I found the last few miles mentally and physically tough, and tried to tell myself that tomorrow I wouldn't anticipate the end point until I could see it.

Finally I spotted the Drovers and eventually I was walking into Beinglas Farm and its surroundings. It was around 3.20pm and I was pleased to have completed such a tough day alongside Loch Lomond. I'd really enjoyed it; the sights and sounds of the day - from the goats to the daffodils to the mountains. A day of two halves indeed, my feet only remembering the toughness of the second part. Once again, a shower, dinner, beer and rest came in a rapid succession!


Day Four: Inverarnan to Bridge of Orchy - 19 miles

I awoke with butterflies in my tummy about today. It was my first properly long day, and I was nervous as to whether I could manage it. I was also excited - I didn't know much about what faced me between Inverarnan and Tyndrum, and I was looking forward to the section from Tyndrum to Bridge of Orchy.

I left Beinglas just after 9am and again, really enjoyed the first section of the day. Alongside the river, with a straightforward path, this was a good start to the day.

I had to run another gauntlet - this time past a number of sheep who seemed determined to stare me down. Having found myself chatting to the goats yesterday, it didn't surprise me that I was reassuring the sheep of my good intent. I'm not the biggest fan of sheep at the best of times, but this one in particular won the staring match:

Shortly after these pictures the snow began again. I found myself in a number of snow flurries throughout my walk but not one of them ever lasted for long. This one in particular called for my ski goggles (okay Dave's ski goggles) as the snow was falling straight into my eyes.

However, it passed quickly, and I didn't use the goggles again.

Once the path crossed over onto the other side of the railway and the road, it got a bit tougher underfoot. Another gauntlet approached - this time cows.

I caught up with an old guy from Rochdale that me and Andrew had first encountered on our way into Drymen. I walked with him for a bit - he'd walked the West Highland Way numerous times - and we had a nice chat. When I left him I was heading into the woods at Crianlarich - the beginning of a very alpine section which I thoroughly enjoyed. The views back to Ben More were fantastic, the sun shone, and the snow was packed beneath my feet.

 

Although this section was undulating, I did really enjoy being in the trees.

Again, the sights were beautiful and I felt incredibly lucky.

Soon it was time to cross the A82 and continue towards Tyndrum, passing St Fillan's Priory, and this comedy sign that I'm sure everyone takes a picture of:

Clever horses round these parts.

The path wound its way through Strathfillan campsite and under the road. I knew I was close to Tyndrum yet the trail had other intentions. Soon I reached the Loch of the Legend of the Lost Sword (where perhaps Robert the Bruce's sword lies) and past a man in trainers.

Numerous roads tempted me into Tyndrum but I kept to the proper path, and eventually crossed the main road again right outside the Green Welly. What a welcome relief this place is, and had I been less sweaty I may have stopped for a bowl of their delicious Cullen Skink. I made use of their facilities and ate my packed lunch just north of Tyndrum. I ended up stopping at Tyndrum for around half an hour, but the refuelling was much needed, and I felt revitalised for the 7 mile stretch to Bridge of Orchy. I was glad that Tyndrum wasn't my destination today, as I felt I had more in the tank than 12 miles.

I'd been looking forward to this next section, and it didn't disappoint. Ben Odhar and Ben Dorain are muckle mountains and provide an impressive panorama as you go. I loved it, I felt so happy.

As I got closer to the railway and a train went past, I was instantly excited for my train journey home!

This was one of my favourite sections of the West Highland Way. The walking, on an old military road, was straightforward and the views were immense. It got even better when I was joined by my mum! Mum, Dad and Robbie the dog had just spent two days on Skye in glorious weather, and were now spending a couple of nights in Kinlochleven. I hadn't expected to see them until the next day, but they decided to join me at Bridge of Orchy for dinner, which was great. It was an added bonus at the end of a long day to see my mum's red jacket appearing on the horizon, and to walk those last few miles with her.

I finally arrived at Bridge of Orchy around quarter past four, elated to have successfully completed a long day. I'd loved this day - from ski goggles to sunshine, it had everything! To be united with my parents and our dog was a real treat - and thanks for buying me dinner :)

I was shattered - and facing a long day the next day. I had the best sleep of the whole trip this night!!


Day Five: Bridge of Orchy to Kinlochleven - 21 miles

Blue skies outside the window promised great things for today - and they did not disappoint. I had a big day ahead of me - walking over Rannoch Moor to Kingshouse, then up and over the Devil's Staircase towards Kinlochleven. A big day - but an exciting day!

It started so well:

I'd walked the 2 mile section from Bridge of Orchy to Inveroran with dad last summer, and knew that the first hill was tough going. However I was also aware of the tremendous views upon reaching the top of the hill, so that thought got me through. It was warm though, and I was sweating buckets within the first ten minutes!

The reward was worth it:

This was just phenomenal, I wanted to send these photos to everyone I knew and say LOOK HOW GOOD IT IS WALKING THE WEST HIGHLAND WAY IN MARCH!!! But I refrained, knowing there was even better to come.

Once I was past the Inveroran Hotel I was again into unchartered territory, and excited for what was ahead. I enjoyed the old drove road sign, and appreciated the warnings that there was now no shelter until Kingshouse.

I almost wanted to run around each corner and see what was ahead. This was such an anticipated section for me, and I knew it wouldn't disappoint.

Rannoch Moor really does everything it says on the tin - even with people up ahead it still felt remote, isolated, wild. It snowed a bit, but that was fitting!

Ba Bridge was impressive but my photos just don't do it justice. The White Corries swept in and out of view as the weather seemed to change every two seconds. White sky, blue sky, white sky, snow, sunshine, snow, sunshine. Sunshine. The Buachille!!

What a thrill of excitement I got when I saw Buachille Etive Mhor!

Then I saw a red jacket heading towards me, and was again happy to see mum walking out to meet me. She joined me as we made our way past the Glencoe Ski Centre and across the road to Kingshouse. At Kingshouse I was met not only by dad and Robbie, but also my Uncle Colin and my cousin Elliot, who would also provide great support from this moment onwards. Much though I enjoyed their company, I was probably more excited to see the deer outside the Kingshouse Hotel (sorry guys).

After a close encounter with this young stag, I moved my lunch elsewhere!

I spent around 45 minutes at Kingshouse, enjoying the views and the deer. It had taken me exactly four hours to get from Bridge of Orchy to Kingshouse, and although there was 'only' nine miles to go, I knew this was going to get tough.

I set off from Kingshouse at 2pm, now joined by dad and Elliot for the section to Kinlochleven. The first couple of miles were straightforward, walking towards the Buachille, although it was disconcerting to be so close to a road again.

And then. It was time. To conquer. The Devil's Staircase. A part of the West Highland Way I'd heard so much about, and was nervous/excited to experience.

I found the climbing up tough. I'd been on the go for a while already, and the weaving upwards path came as a shock to the limbs. I stopped regularly to enjoy the views. Again the cloud swept in, making the scenery bleak yet impressive.

Soon - thankfully after not too long - we reached the highest point of the West Highland Way and were truly astonished at the views that greeted us. Once more, I wanted to shout out my joy and happiness to be here, now, at this moment.

Amazing!

From here it was downhill all the way to Kinlochleven, although to be honest I think we'd have been better off with sledges. This was certainly the snowiest part of the path, and after the elation of reaching the highest point, I struggled all the way down to civilisation.

I felt a bit sick, my toes were sore, my left knee was sore, my hips were sore. I felt sorry for myself, and just wanted to get there. However, I also took the time to appreciate the beauty of my surroundings. The snow-capped mountains set against the blue skies was simply wonderful.

The downhill was tough, but finally we spotted my uncle walking up to meet us, and relief washed over me that we were getting closer to Kinlochleven.

We finally reached the town around 5.45pm and I was absolutely exhausted. A long, tough day - but extremely rewarding.

Once more, a shower and dinner made me feel slightly more human, and again I slept well that night. I was also entertained by Robbie's attempt to get beer in the pub:

Day Six: Kinlochleven to Fort William - 16 miles

Having been so sore the night before, I was so worried I'd wake up in pain this morning and have to crawl to the finish. However I learned this week that the body has an amazing way of 'geeing' itself up when it has to. Sure, I felt sore, but I'd walked 80 miles and I'd be walking 16 more (there's a song in there somewhere no?)

It was a beautiful morning in Kinlochleven. The sun was beating down and I set off with my jacket tied to my backpack. Although there was a slight chill in the air, it felt almost like a summer's day. What a perfect day to finish this most incredible walk. I met mum and dad on the outskirts, and we said our goodbyes as they were heading for home.

I'd been warned about the climb out of Kinlochleven, and it was as tough as it was billed to be. However it was over relatively quickly, having shed a few pounds through sweat in the process! At the top of the hill I was reunited with the three Glaswegians I'd last seen at Inversnaid, which was lovely and we walked and chatted for a while.

I passed a few others and I also thoroughly enjoyed the next five miles or so. I could see the path stretching out ahead, and the walking was relatively straightforward, although icy in places.

 

I set a really quick pace for myself this day, never quite believing I could finish this thing until I actually finished it. I worried that if I slowed down I'd never make it. The faster I went the less I thought about the pain my feet were going through. Nothing too dramatic - the wee pinky blister I'd gained on day one very tender, and the soles of my feet sore.

Unbelievably I reached Glen Nevis, and Fort William got tantalisingly close. I almost didn't want to stop for lunch, I just wanted to get there, but I was so hungry I had to. I stopped with this view for lunch:

Although the last few miles on the road were a bit disappointing (and a bit of a challenge to the tender toes!) I was just so elated to be within touching distance of the finish line. For some reason I could not process the fact that I'd almost completed 96 miles. I'm not sure I've processed it yet - perhaps because for some reason I couldn't let myself believe I could do it until I'd reached the end. Even reaching the end didn't allow me to feel it properly - perhaps it will come soon, upon returning to 'normal life'.

I found myself walking along Fort William high street, as I'd done so many times before. But this time with 96 miles behind me, a huge smile on my face, the sun shining. The finish line in sight.

And not only the finish line in sight - a mother, father, uncle, cousin and dog lurking inconspicuously round the corner of the tourist information centre! They'd led me to believe they were all going home - and in fact they were waiting for me at the finish! It was a very touching moment, and again I say to them thank you for your amazing support that proved so incredibly valuable!

Oh - and thanks for adorning me with champagne and gifts! And the hugs! And taking photos for me at the finish line!

thank you xx (try and look interested Robbie)

 

What an incredible feeling of achievement! The tears came - but not properly until I was back in Edinburgh! As I said I found / find it incredibly hard to process, and only from looking back upon photos do I really get a sense of what happened.

Leaving the outskirts of Scotland's largest city one brisk Saturday morning, only to arrive at the foot of Scotland's highest mountain in the sunshine six days and 96 miles later is an incredible thing. I would do the whole thing again in a heartbeat if I could. I'd go tomorrow.

I know I was incredibly fortunate with the weather - not a single drop of rain the whole week. A few snow flurries but nothing wet. However I feel I deserved this good fortune - people told me I was mad to go at the end of March, and I thought they were right when the weather took a turn for the worse in the days prior. However, as I learnt on Arran - fortune favours the brave. Only from getting out there and persevering did my efforts pay off.

People told me I was mad to go it alone - but I was never really alone once. I thought I'd have all this time to think - to think about my future, to reflect, to ponder what was next. But all I could think about was putting one foot in front of the other. I was so immersed in walking.

It felt lonely travelling home. I felt changed, enriched, lucky, appreciative - not too mention tired, sore, weatherbeaten, achy. The train journey from Fort William was absolutely incredible, and a magical end to a magical week. I saw my first eagle, and there were stags around every corner. On seeing the path from the window, and walkers on the path, I became very emotional. I wanted to be back out there! I'd have walked home if my feet would have let me!

I am overcome with appreciation to everyone who helped me along the way, as I couldn't have done it alone. Thanks of course to my wonderful family whose support means so much. For those that were with me, and to those who are further away that sent supportive messages. To Dave for your love from afar - and for the Buff you bought me for Christmas, and your ski goggles :) To everyone who accommodated me, made me breakfast, packed my lunch, wished me well. To AMS for carrying a bag for me, and to everyone else who helped in the planning stages. To those who've sent supportive messages via social media - this meant so much when I was feeling a bit lonely :)

Thank you all for getting me from start to finish. Thank you!